Mid-Summer Musings of a Bored Surfer

What is going on with the surf?

This is the time of year when pretty much every local surfer that I know is practically on the verge of insanity.  Last season is now a forgotten distant memory, and the upcoming swells of Fall and Winter are just too far away for us to get excited about.  This year has been worse than most given the especially weak season that we just experienced.  Although we have had a few playful windswells this Summer, it too is turning out to be bust surf-wise.  Very little hurricane or "chubasco" activity has occurred off the West Coast of Mexico, and except for that one monster Southern-hemi that slammed our coast in April, we have not had the typical action that characterizes a Southern California Summer.  The professional towsurfing contests of both Central and South America have been shut out, with holding periods leading to nothing.  Looking at the big climatological / oceanographic picture, SST anomolies continue to look very atypical.  Some meteorologists all calling for a return of La Niña.  The good new is that this will be a change from what we have been experiencing since the first of the year.  Some years La Niña results in dry conditions with few major Pacific storms.  Other La Niña years have brought with them tremendous swells.  Right now it appears to be anyone's guess...

The Lovely Ladies of Rincon

Wander down the path from the parking lot to the sand on any given weekday morning, and gaze out to the lineup, and you are likely to see a tall and slender sandy-blonde haired female surfer named Heather Hudson catching wave after wave.  Heather surfs with a style and grace that is all her own, combining beauty with aggression - a rare pairing in any sporting venue.  If her good friend Deb Trauntvine is dubbed the "Queen", then Heather is surely the "Lady Di" of Rincon Pt.  With model-good looks, and surfing talent to match, Heather's longboard acts as her modeling runway.  Her surf sessions present like her own private showing...  Heather first learned to cross-step the catwalk during her earlier days at Malibu's Surfrider Beach, where she was a local before relocating to S.B. years ago...







Akiskalian at Teahupoo

One year ago this week, Rincon local Eric Akiskalian was busy towing into some monster barrels in Tahiti.



47 years old, married, the father of two young children.  Eric, I sure hope you've got a good active life insurance policy!  I also know a good psychotherapist who you can talk to... 


 

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