Opening Day at Rincon 2007/2008!
After Months of Anticipation, First Real Swell Arrives at the Point
A good friend just called to tell me that he was in the water from 1:00 until 5:00. and stated further, "It just kept getting bigger and bigger!" He said that the sets were a solid 2 - 3 feet overhead, and that the waves were very juicy...
I myself took a chance and drove down to the point this morning, hoping to catch the swell forerunners after the tide drop, and this strategy seemed to work pretty well. I arrived just after 9:30 am and had the area between the top of the cove and the rivermouth pretty much all to myself. While it was flat between the sets, about every 15 minutes or so a solid 3-wave set would roll through, some as big a shoulder- to head-high. I surfed until I had to leave for work (1:00 pm), and for me it was one of the most memorable opening-day sessions I've ever had. It was so hard to leave! I didn't bring my camera as I am thoroughly surf-deprived, and will need to get at least a few sessions in before I get behind the lens... Unfortunately (for me) I won't have another opportunity for a couple of days as me surfing will be pre-empted by work-related commitments...
Surf Movie Coming to Santa Barbara October 18th
Jason Baffa's new surf film is coming to the Arlington Theatre in Santa Barbara on thursday October 18th. Read more about it on the website www.onecaliforniaday.com.
Now get out there and get some!!
A good friend just called to tell me that he was in the water from 1:00 until 5:00. and stated further, "It just kept getting bigger and bigger!" He said that the sets were a solid 2 - 3 feet overhead, and that the waves were very juicy...
I myself took a chance and drove down to the point this morning, hoping to catch the swell forerunners after the tide drop, and this strategy seemed to work pretty well. I arrived just after 9:30 am and had the area between the top of the cove and the rivermouth pretty much all to myself. While it was flat between the sets, about every 15 minutes or so a solid 3-wave set would roll through, some as big a shoulder- to head-high. I surfed until I had to leave for work (1:00 pm), and for me it was one of the most memorable opening-day sessions I've ever had. It was so hard to leave! I didn't bring my camera as I am thoroughly surf-deprived, and will need to get at least a few sessions in before I get behind the lens... Unfortunately (for me) I won't have another opportunity for a couple of days as me surfing will be pre-empted by work-related commitments...
Surf Movie Coming to Santa Barbara October 18th
Jason Baffa's new surf film is coming to the Arlington Theatre in Santa Barbara on thursday October 18th. Read more about it on the website www.onecaliforniaday.com.
Now get out there and get some!!
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