Big & Nasty: Gnarliest Swell In Years Charges Into SB Channel!
Posted by Jon Shafer at 2/25/2008 3:11 PM and is filed under uncategorized 
Many Surfers Can't Even Make the Paddle Out
Sunday morning brought with it the promise of a new swell, following the disappointments of a cancelled contest, and several days of stormy weather. For many days the swell forecasters had been calling for a large West to fill in Sunday afternoon, but what arrived several hours earlier than expected can be considered nothing less than mind-blowing. Locals reported to 1-3' mild Rincon early Sunday, but within only about an hour's time, all hell broke loose -- to the magnitude not seen for years, maybe decades. Leaving Santa Barbara, I didn't expect to find much, but as I drove past Shark's and up Summerland Hill, I caught a glimpse of the most well-defined lines that I can ever remember seeing in 35 years. Continuing down the 101, cars were stopped all along the side of the road, gawkers staring out to sea at waves where you would never normally see them. Passing Padaro/Santa Claus I saw sets of 10-foot-plus lines stacked all the way to the horizon...like nothing I've ever seen locally here before...including the El Niños of the early 1980's...
When I arrived at the Rincon parking lot it was 2/3's empty. Surfers were caught off-gaurd. I scrambled down the path, and couldn't believe my eyes when I turned towards the sea. Literal mountains of whitewater, everywhere you looked. I couldn't even see the horizon - even when climbing up to higher ground. How big was it really, dare I say 15 - 20, Hawaiian on the biggest sets? The lineup simply never got crowded. Many tried to get out, and many failed. The longshore current was like a raging river, not to be tamed. Only the heartiest made it out, and then, taking off was a whole 'nother story. I shot hundreds of images, most yet to be processed, but I just wanted to share a few with you in the meantime. As quick as this swell came, it clearly had faded by morning to a more workable size. Reports were that it was much cleaner and set waves could still be had in the DOH range. It may be weeks, years, or decades before another event comes along like this one. Below are a couple of images for those who missed it. The glare from shooting directly into the afternoon sun made things quite challenging, but you'll get the picture. Enjoy!
Be sure to check out the Surf Photo Gallery and 'Sessions' reports in the forums at www.santabarbarasurfer.com to read more.
Sunday morning brought with it the promise of a new swell, following the disappointments of a cancelled contest, and several days of stormy weather. For many days the swell forecasters had been calling for a large West to fill in Sunday afternoon, but what arrived several hours earlier than expected can be considered nothing less than mind-blowing. Locals reported to 1-3' mild Rincon early Sunday, but within only about an hour's time, all hell broke loose -- to the magnitude not seen for years, maybe decades. Leaving Santa Barbara, I didn't expect to find much, but as I drove past Shark's and up Summerland Hill, I caught a glimpse of the most well-defined lines that I can ever remember seeing in 35 years. Continuing down the 101, cars were stopped all along the side of the road, gawkers staring out to sea at waves where you would never normally see them. Passing Padaro/Santa Claus I saw sets of 10-foot-plus lines stacked all the way to the horizon...like nothing I've ever seen locally here before...including the El Niños of the early 1980's...
When I arrived at the Rincon parking lot it was 2/3's empty. Surfers were caught off-gaurd. I scrambled down the path, and couldn't believe my eyes when I turned towards the sea. Literal mountains of whitewater, everywhere you looked. I couldn't even see the horizon - even when climbing up to higher ground. How big was it really, dare I say 15 - 20, Hawaiian on the biggest sets? The lineup simply never got crowded. Many tried to get out, and many failed. The longshore current was like a raging river, not to be tamed. Only the heartiest made it out, and then, taking off was a whole 'nother story. I shot hundreds of images, most yet to be processed, but I just wanted to share a few with you in the meantime. As quick as this swell came, it clearly had faded by morning to a more workable size. Reports were that it was much cleaner and set waves could still be had in the DOH range. It may be weeks, years, or decades before another event comes along like this one. Below are a couple of images for those who missed it. The glare from shooting directly into the afternoon sun made things quite challenging, but you'll get the picture. Enjoy!
Be sure to check out the Surf Photo Gallery and 'Sessions' reports in the forums at www.santabarbarasurfer.com to read more.
Found Sunglasses on Big Sunday. Identify brand, frame style, color frame, color lens and have reciept to claim. If you were out there, you can skip the reciept. Jed@jedhirsch.com
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friend of mine was sitting in her car in a parking lot on the other side of the railroad tracks near Santa Clause Lane when she looked up to see a giant wave crash into her cracking her windshield and busting out her emergency lights. Her car was floating as high as the telephone pools. Railroad emergency crews were dispatched to check the rail lines. Said if a train would have been passing, it would have been derailed Sunday Afternoon.
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Great shots. Would have been a great day just to be a spectator.
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