Solid Week of Waves Provide Relief to Starving Surfers


Rincon Regular Clay Griffin races just ahead of the foam ball Friday Morning at The 'Con


Monday Through Friday Waves of Plenty

In spite of the disappointment following the previous weekend's no-show of the "epic" long-period swell that had been forecasted the week before, every day of the past week offered good opportunities to get in on some classic Rincon beginning on Monday.  On Thursday there was a significant spike with juicy overhead barrels in the afternoon, followed by a near-perfect morning session on Friday.  Whether it was Surfline's fault or not, the sessions later in the week were really crowded, with both parking lots full as surfers from all over California were jonesing to get in on the action.  Personally, I committed to surf myself most of the week after missing most of the past 2 seasons suffering from acute lower back pain, but I just could not resist.  On Friday I was so sore that I could barely walk -- even with painkillers in my bloodstream -- so, I opted to take pictures instead.  Tomorrow I am getting a minor surgical procedure ("Rhizotomy") that hopefully will bring some relief that lasts longer than just a few days as afforded by the quarterly epidural cortisone injections I've been getting for the past 4 years.  Please wish me luck...

Below are a few more images that I captured during Friday morning's session at Rincon.




Local Rochelle riding her Andreini "White Owl" hull...


Unidentified Noserider


The view from inside The Cove was idyllic...


Santa Barbara Seals' JP Garcia takes off ahead of longtime local Al Daniels...


Unidentified Rider


Unidentified Rider


Dave Johnson Update



"Mr. Resilient" Dave Johnson gets his ankles slapped this past Saturday at the SB Surf Club Intra-Club contest at Deveraux Pt.


Financial Assistance for Johnson Family Will be Necessary After All

As reported previously, it was thought that the Johnson Family had sufficient insurance coverage to enable them to recover from last month's devastating Tea Fire.  Unfortunately, as the aftermath of this tragedy has unfolded, it has been revealed that there is in fact a significant shortfall in resources, and donations will be necessary for DJ to rebuild his home.  Dave has been a pillar of the local surf community for over 40 years, and could really use your help as the Christmas Holiday approaches.  I was talking to Dave yesterday when he informed me that he is closing in on 30,000 custom hand-shaped surfboards under his own Progressive label (and excluding Channel Islands and Patagonia brand boards).  Please join in on the efforts to help the Johnson Family recovery from the ground up. 

Click on the "Donate" button below to give directly to the Dave Johnson Fire Fund via PayPal

The Dave Johnson Fire Fund: